ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH

Cavtat, Croatia

Cavtat was originally the site of the Greek town Epidaurum, founded in the 4th century BC, but later rules by the Roman empire. Cobbled streets with traditional red-roofed, brownstone houses climb up the hill from the blue waterfront. The narrow stairways between buildings are draped with white, pink and mauve blossoms. In the fruit and vegetable market, crates of green and red peppers, purple eggplants and figs are piled high beside tables of bananas, papayas, melons and the lemons, taken from nearby trees. The 16th century Church of St. Nicholas faces the harbor, which is lined with shops and restaurants. Perfectly positioned to overlook the seaside promenade, the Baroque church has a welcoming facade of solid, pale gray stone. Elevated to protect itself from sea surges, the church is approached by ascending a series of gracious stone stairs.

Before the visit to Cavtat, we had stopped at a country restaurant for a leisurely lunch in a beautiful garden, with its own mountain stream and wait staff in traditional Croatian dress. The local wine was outstanding. By the time we arrived in Cavtat, a bathroom stop was high on the priority list, but there were no public facilities. The guide explained the local custom: you go into a restaurant, have a coffee or a beer, and then use their toilet. This seemed to be a vicious cycle that might never end: toilet, beer, toilet, beer, etc. I found time to sit on the promenade, with the Adriatic Sea to my back (photo on inside front cover), to sketch this quaint little church.